A few days in Door County Wisconsin was just what we needed.  We stayed four nights at the Sister Bay Inn.  The sojourn in our comfortable room was existentially satisfying when we read the story of the inn keepers, Vilius and Alma Vaicekauskas.  We had occasion to converse with them several times while we were there and felt a genuine connection.

Since this was our first visit to Door County we decided to spend our time visiting the small lakeside towns, and the highly recommended Newport State Park which is at the tip of the peninsula.  Since Sister Bay was our base, we began our visit with breakfast at Al Johnson’s Swedish themed restaurant.  Yep, those are goats lounging, sunning themselves on the gradually pitched grassy  roof.  The goat must have a prominent place in Swedish lore,–I am sure there is a good story there somewhere.  Our breakfast was very fine.  Upon receiving our bill I asked our waitress if she enjoyed working at Johnson’s.  She answered unequivocally that they were fair, and did not practice favoritism among the staff.  There was none of that drama with her job.  She was from Romania.

A wood carving by the front entry of Johnson’s.  Not exactly my idea of Swedish women…..

Newport State Park is by Ellison Bay.  Everything about this place delighted us.  it is a wilderness park, which means that it is undeveloped other than the trails.  The RV crowd, with all of the modern conveniences is not likely to be attracted to this place.  You park and then you walk in, carry what you need, and leave nothing behind at the conclusion of your visit.  We enjoyed a two hour hike in delicious solitude.  Yet we were not alone. The forest, and ferns, and sun dappled path were company enough.  Being alone in the forest without any amenities at hand reminded me of how temporary, but glorious is our lease on life.  As with the turning of the leaves, “everything that lives, dies.”  Can I learn, will I learn to be Ok with that?

We spent some time at the Door Peninsula Distillery and Winery in Sturgeon Bay.  The artistry of places like this remind me that the principle of moderation in all things is absolutely essential to a balanced life, a modicum of happiness.  The seasonal colors, and forms presented within the tasting room were transcendent.

Maybe that is it.  Could the foundation of a life well lived be: good taste and moderation?  There is no oracle at Delphi that we might consult for an answer.  I would be willing to put my money on these two principles.

We really enjoyed picking bottles of fruit wines to fill up our case.  We were offered a discount.  The holidays are coming up and we certainly will not consume all of this ourselves.

While in Ellison Bay we stopped in at a rather ramshackle appearing book store, Wm Caxton Ltd., Bookseller and Publisher.  We are always on the lookout for bookstores, because books have been a lifeline for us over the years.  Inside the front door was a musty, adequately lit, long room with shelves of used books, floor-to-ceiling.  I asked the proprietor if they had a philosophy section.  He pointed to the back and to the right commenting that they were more or less in alphabetical order.  I was stunned to find hundreds of books on every philosophical topic you can imagine.  There was not enough time left in the day to even get started here.  I returned to the front desk and asked the owner if he had anything by Wendell Berry.  I was sent in one direction to look, and he went in another.  We didn’t find anything on hand by Mr Berry.

The proprietor, a  gnomish, Gandalf like older guy, Kubet Luchterhand, looked me in the eye and asked me if I had read The Clam Lake Papers by Edward Lueders.  I said no, I had not.  If you like Wendell Berry you will really like this he said, handing me a new copy.  He explained that the book had gone out of print and that he had contacted the author and obtained the rights to republish it.  He then told us the story of Edward Lueders visit to Ellison Bay for a reading and book signing when he was in his late 70s.  The party hosted by Luchterhand for 80 guests who came from far and wide, went late into the evening.  I was mesmerized as I listened.  I bought the book.

I also bought a copy of John Steinbeck’s Grapes of Wrath.  Our visit to Door County was complete.  Until we come again.